Sardinia
Three weeks roadtrip discovering natural beauty of the island
Su Pallosu, Sardinia

text and photo by Vít and Barbora Baisa

If you’re feeling the winter blues and craving some adventure, Sardinia might just be the destination for you. In February 2022, we packed up our car and hit the road, eager to escape the bitter cold and discover the beauty of this Mediterranean island. While the beaches may not have been ideal for lounging in swimsuits, the clear waters and picturesque scenery were perfect for strolling along the coastline. Although the mountains were too cold to explore, we found solace in the island’s hot springs, soaking up the warmth and relaxation. Best of all, we had the island almost entirely to ourselves, free to explore and take in all the natural attractions without the crowds of peak season. If you’re looking for a unique off-season adventure, Sardinia might just be the perfect escape.

Not sure whether Sardinia in spring is for you? Here is some basic information about the island and how the spring there look like (most of the years).

Source: Mapy.cz
Source: Mapy.cz

Hiking, cycling, stargazing and much more

Looking for adventure beyond the beach, we set out to explore the rugged beauty of Sardinia’s mountains and natural wonders. Although the weather wasn’t always on our side, we made the most of the clear skies to go stargazing under the twinkling heavens. Despite the light pollution from nearby villages, we were awe-struck by the dazzling constellations above us.

A historic Observation Tower Torre Foghe and breathtaking night sky, Sardinia.
Torre Foghe: a historic Observation Tower at night, Sardinia.

While we couldn’t cycle as much as we had hoped due to the chilly temperatures, we still used our trusty bikes to explore quaint towns and villages that were inaccessible by car, and to traverse picturesque coastal paths with ease. From winding roads with stunning vistas to hidden nooks and crannies of breathtaking beauty, we discovered Sardinia’s hidden gems on two wheels.

To the most beautiful beach on the island

We parked our car at a beach parking lot just a short distance from the town of Stintino, and set off on our bikes to explore the area. Despite the occasional rain and rusty chains, we were able to easily follow the marked cycling trail, which took us through the charming town and along the breathtaking coastline.

As we pedaled along, we couldn’t help but stop at every corner to take in the stunning views and search for hidden beaches. Finally, we arrived at the crown jewel of Sardinian beaches—the Spiaggia La Pelosa. Though the water was still too cold for swimming, we took some amazing photos and strolled along the shore before continuing on our journey.

On our way back, we stopped at a lookout point to take in the luxurious views of the beach and surrounding properties. The cycling trip was not too strenuous, and we were able to enjoy the journey at our own pace while avoiding the crowds that flock to the area in the summer.

If you’re looking for a fun and unique way to explore the beauty of Sardinia, then a cycling trip along the coast of Stintino is definitely worth adding to your itinerary. So grab your bike and let’s hit the road!

Cala Luna one-day hike

Are you looking for a breathtaking one-day hike in Sardinia? Look no further than Cala Luna, a coastal cave and beach that’s not to be missed. Although you can reach the beach and cave by boat from various locations, we highly recommend the hike on foot, which offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape and an unexpected surprise.

A woman standing in huge cave with blue see in the background. Cala Luna, Sardinia.
Cala Luna, Sardinia.

Start your day early and park your car near the entrance to Cala di Fuili beach, south of the town of Cala Gonone. After fueling up with a hearty breakfast, packing some snacks, and lacing up your hiking boots, follow the signs to Cala Luna.

Along the way, keep your eyes peeled for the stunning Grotta del Bue Marino, a cave with beautiful views of the wild waves and a plethora of stalactites and stalagmites. The entire journey, with all the stops and breaks, takes just over two hours in one direction (even though it’s only just over 5 km), and the terrain can be quite rocky and challenging at times, so we recommend setting aside a whole day for this excursion.

Around 2 PM, you’ll finally arrive at Spiaggia di Cala Luna and walk back a bit to the north where the cave itself is located. Although the entire trail is easy to navigate, you may need to do a little wandering to find your way around the Riu Codula Illune river when you arrive at the beach. But with GPS, you’ll eventually find your way.

Since there’s still a long way back, spend only about an hour exploring the coastline and taking pictures of the cave before heading back. To our surprise, we met several groups still heading towards the beach on the way back, and it was clear that they wouldn’t make it back before nightfall. We ourselves returned to the car already in the dark. So, keep in mind that the day is short, and it’s essential to plan your trip accordingly. Bring a headlamp just in case, and make sure you’re back before dark to avoid getting lost on the trail.

Perks of the off-season traveling in Sardinia

Think Sardinia is only a summer destination? Think again! We took a chance and traveled to Sardinia in February/March, and it was a decision we’ll never regret. Despite a few rainy days and lower-than-expected temperatures, Sardinia proved to be the perfect spring destination for nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers alike.

A woman sitting and drinking wine at empty beach bar at Spiaggia Orvile, Sardinia.
Baru’s private beach bar at Spiaggia Orvile, Sardinia.

The deserted beaches were a true highlight of our trip, where we often had the whole beach to ourselves. And when we ventured into the local mountains around Mount Limbara, we were blown away by the untouched wilderness and breathtaking vistas. We spent two days hiking and didn’t see another soul.

Although not all restaurants and shops were open during our visit, the charming streets of the local towns and villages made up for it. And the best part? Accommodation prices were significantly lower, making it an affordable destination for budget-conscious travelers.

So why not break away from the summer crowds and explore the hidden wonders of Sardinia in the off-season? You won’t be disappointed!

Not everything goes as planned

With less than a month to explore, we had so many plans, but even with all our excitement and determination, we couldn’t visit all the places on our list. But don’t worry, because what we did manage to see was absolutely stunning!

A map showing the planned route and the actual one of the roadtrip, Sardinia
The planned route (left) and the actual one (right).

Sardinia might look small on the map next to mainland Italy, but don’t let that fool you—this island is packed with natural wonders. We saw some of the most beautiful beaches and caves we’ve ever laid eyes on. And if you’re into picturesque towns and villages, you’re in luck—Sardinia has plenty of those, too.

And the funny highlight of our trip? A last-minute text message telling us that our ferry was cancelled and we had to take the next one. So we decided to make the most of our extra time and hit a beach not far from the port town. And let me tell you, taking a dip in that crystal-clear water was the perfect end to our adventure.

Breathtaking beaches

Sardinia is home to over 300 stunning beaches. With so many beaches to choose from, it’s impossible to enjoy them all in just a few weeks on the road. So, we decided to focus on the most beautiful and famous ones, leaving the lesser-known beaches for our next visit.

Spiaggia La Pelosa, Spiaggia Marina di Orosei, Cala Brandinchi

While we’re not exactly beach enthusiasts, we found ourselves drawn to the long walks on the sand. Take, for instance, the Spiaggia di Piscinas beach, which stretches for approximately 8 kilometers. With its towering sand dunes and clear blue waters, a challenging walk in the sand here can easily turn into a full-day trip. The beach of Cala Brandinchi was another highlight, with its nickname of “Little Tahiti” well-deserved. However, be prepared for the wind, which can almost blow you away.

Wonders of nature

If you’re looking for a unique and stunning location in Sardinia, look no further than the golden sand dunes of Piscinas. These dunes, located on the west coast of the southern part of the island, are some of the largest in Europe and left the biggest impression on us during our travels.

The dunes themselves were a true marvel. With their towering height and fine, golden sand, they were unlike anything we had ever seen before. We spent hours wandering through the dunes, taking in the breathtaking views of twisted trees and unique patterns in the sand. As the evening approached, we were treated to a stunning sunset that painted the dunes in warm shades of orange and pink.

Old tree lying on the sand dunes at golden hour at Dune di Piscinas, Sardinia.
Old tree lying on the sand dunes at Dune di Piscinas, Sardinia.

While we have yet to visit the Sahara or other similar destinations, we can confidently say that the Piscinas dunes are a must-see for any traveler. The nearby beach and clear waters make it an ideal destination for a day trip, and the dunes themselves offer a unique and unforgettable experience. So, pack your camera and get ready to be amazed by the beauty of the Piscinas dunes.

And not to forget, some hot springs on the way

We’ve known about these hidden gems for some time, but we had no idea just how incredible they would be until we set out on our road trip.

There’s nothing quite like taking a dip in the warm thermal waters when the air is cool around you. It’s an experience that you’ll remember for a lifetime. And the best part? You get to enjoy all of this in the heart of nature, without any crowds of tourists to disturb your peace.

We started our journey with a few days of hiking around the town of Fordongianus. This area is home to the archaeological site of the Roman Baths and the famous hot springs. Although we weren’t too keen on the bathing pools, we still enjoyed warming up our frozen feet in the thermal waters. Plus, the area was perfect for hiking and cycling.

Roman baths of Fordongianus, hidden hot springs, Vitek warming his feet in hot springs

Unfortunately, also the natural pool at Terme di Casteldoria wasn’t quite what we were hoping for. But we didn’t let that discourage us. Instead, we continued our search for the perfect spot to take a dip. And after hours of Googling and looking at maps, we finally found it.

We were hesitant about taking an unplanned 100km detour inland, but it was worth it. We discovered clear thermal waters and beautifully landscaped pools that were all just for us. We couldn’t believe our luck - there was no one around to disturb our peaceful soak.

Why visit Sardinia in spring?

As winter fades into early spring, Sardinia comes alive with new energy and fresh blooms. The island’s beaches may still be a bit chilly for swimming, but they are perfect for taking long walks and enjoying the stunning scenery. Meanwhile, the countryside is ablaze with wildflowers and lush greenery, making it an idyllic spot for a leisurely hike or bike ride. For those seeking adventure, the hiking trails at many places offer stunning vistas of the rugged terrain and breathtaking coastline.

Daisies, Aloe Vera, and some other spring yellow flowers

Beyond the natural beauty, Sardinia also boasts a rich cultural heritage. Springtime festivals and fairs celebrate the island’s history, showcasing traditional crafts, music, and gastronomy. Whether you’re looking to explore ancient ruins or wander through charming villages, Sardinia is the perfect place to immerse yourself in a unique and fascinating culture.

For those unfamiliar with Sardinia, it is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea and is located west of Italy. It is known for its rugged coastline, white sand beaches, crystal-clear waters, and unique cuisine. The island has a rich history, with influences from Phoenician, Roman, and Byzantine civilizations, and is home to a wealth of archaeological sites, including the Nuraghe, an ancient megalithic structure unique to Sardinia. With its mix of natural beauty, rich history, and vibrant culture, Sardinia is an excellent destination for travelers looking for a unique and unforgettable experience.

Sunset over the historic town with tower and castle, spring nature Sardinia.
Sunset over the historic town Posada, Sardinia.